





Label: Women Fashion
T’s summer women’s fashion bonus in this week’s New York Times magazine travels to the Riviera, for the Cannes Film Festival. Jean-Baptiste Mondino photographs the actress Diane Kruger auditioning for the director Quentin Tarantino, who will show his latest film “Inglourious Basterds” (Kruger stars along with Brad Pitt in this gruesome war picture) at the 71st festival. Pedro Almodóvar, who first came to Cannes in 1982, reveals his favorite red carpet photo ops and festival hot spots.

And who better to capture seven of the most captivating performers who made a splash at Cannes, including Vanessa Redgrave, Bjork, and Jim Jarmusch, than the photographers Inez Van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin? Elsewhere, Phoebe Eaton profiles Charles Finch, the man who makes it all happen from film financing to party planning; François Simon digests the serious whining and dining at the over-the-top Hôtel du Cap; and we showcase a history of bathing beauties along the Croisette.


Label: Women Fashion









Label: Women Fashion






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Label: Women Fashion




Label: Women Fashion
FIRST DECADE OF 20CENTURY. 1900-1910
Beginning of Edwardian epoch.
STYLE : Continuation of aesthetics of Art Nouveau style and development of “Arts and crafts“ movement . Art Nouveau incarnated in in Vienna Austria as the Secession and in Germany as Jugendstil.
FASHION DESIGNERS: Paul Poiret, Jean Paquin, Mariano Fortuny
DANCE : Tango, Waltz.
POPULAR MUSIC: Ragtime.
ART: Fauvism , Analytical Cubism, Expressionism
SECOND DECADE OF 20CENTURY. 1910-1920.
Development of Edwardian epoch.
STYLE :Art Nouveau style evolved in Art Deco .
First World War. Development of more practical women’s fashion.
FASHION DESIGNERS: Coco Chanel ( as an emerging designer she open her first shop in 1913), Paquin, Lanvin, Leon Bakst(mostly costume designer for Ballets Russes), Jackues Doucet
Inspiration : Ballets Russes
FASHION ILLUSTRATORS: George Barbier, George Lepape
DANCE : Tango, Waltz Boston
POPULAR MUSIC: Ragtime, beginning of Jazz.
ART: Fauvism , Analytical Cubism, Dadaism( after 1914 ), Futurism
THIRD DECADE OF 20CENTURY. 1920-1930.
Roaring Twenties
STYLE : formation of Art Deco style.
INFLUENCES AND INSPIRATION: cinematograph, social revolution, new technology, sport , Russian constructivists: Varvara Stepanova, Lubov Popova
FASHION DESIGNERS: Coco Channel , Madeleine Vionnet; Erte , Sonia Delauney, Lanvin, Jean Patau, Edward Molynex
DANCE : Charleston, Foxtrot, Tango , Shimmy
POPULAR MUSIC: Jazz
ART: Non Figurative abstraction , Cubism, Futurism, Bauhaus, Constructivism
FORTH DECADE OF 20CENTURY. 1930-1940.
Style : development of Art Deco
beginning of “ready to wear” fashion
FASHION DESIGNERS: Coco Channel, Elsa Schiaparelli .
FASHION ILLUSTRATOR: Drian
POPULAR MUSIC: Jazz , Big Band
DANCE : Foxtrot, Tango, Valse , Boogie Woogie
ART: Surrealism, Constructivism
FIFTH DECADE OF 20CENTURY. 1940-1950.Style : decline of Art Deco
Second World War. Transition from masculine women’s fashion of the beginning of the decade to extremely feminine ( New Look by Dior) by the end of the decade
FASHION DESIGNERS: Lucien Lelong, Christian Dior ,Christobal Balensiaga, Jacques Fath, Pierre Balman .
Development of “ready to wear” fashion in the USA
POPULAR MUSIC : Bop , Big Band
DANCE : Jive, Swing , Foxtrot
Art: deepening of non representational abstraction in the USA with input of Hans Hoffman, cut outs of Matisse, individual style of Arshile Gorky. Fernan Leger

SIXTH DECADE OF 20CENTURY. 1950-1960.
Style : Influences and inspiration: Neo Realism Cinema
FASHION DESIGNERS: Christian Dior ; Christobal Balensiaga Channel (came back at 1954), Jack Patu, Pierre Balman, Emilio Pucci
Spreading of “ready to wear” concept ( prêt o porter in French interpretation) to Europe (Marx & Spenser )
Origination of alternative style. Beat generation . emerging of Teenage styles and fashion
FASHION ILLUSTRATOR: Rene Gruau
POPULAR MUSIC: Cool jazz (Miles Davis, Gerry Mulligan, Stan Getz,)
DANCE : Rockabilly , Rock n’roll, Twist
ART: Abstract expressionism
SEVENTH DECADE OF 20CENTURY. 1960-1970.
INFLUENCES AND INSPIRATIONS: street styles, youth culture, rock music, space exploration, new technologies
FASHION DESIGNERS: Yves Saint Laurent, Paco Rabanne, Ted Lapidus, Mary Quant, André Courrèges , Pierre Cardin, Emanuel Ungaro (from late 60s)
Ready to were lines in haute couture Rive Goche by Yves Saint Laurent
Ready to were Brands emerged : Gap (1969), Benetton (1965)
Generation of “ready to wear” stylists (evolved from late sixties) Sonia Rykiel, Emanuel Khan, Gerard Pipard, Christian Bailly
Street styles and alternative fashion : Hippy, Modes, Rockers
Rise of Fashion photography. Decline of fashion illustration.
DANCE : Rochk’n roll
POPULAR MUSIC: Rock 'n' Roll, Rock
ART: Abstract expressionism , Op Art, Pop Art Stylistic diversity , end of monolith stylistic trend.
EIGHT DECADE OF 20CENTURY. 1970-1980.
Fashion photography replaces fashion illustration. Richard Avedon and Helmut Newton
FASHION DESIGNERS:
France :Yves Saint Laurent, Kenzo ( moved from Japan in Paris in 1964)
UK: Vivienne Westwood
USA : Calvin Klein (launched his own clothing company in 1968, jeans brand in 70s)
Italian High fashion : Valentino, Armani (established his own men's wear label in 1974), Versace (1978)
Ready to were Brands expanded: Gap : Sales reach $2 million. Gap's second store opens in San Jose, Calif., Benetton (1965)
DANCE : Disco, Glam, Pop
ART: Conceptualism, emerging of Body Art and Performance Art, Arte Povera , Emergence of Installation Art
POPULAR MUSIC: Punk Rock

NINTH DECADE OF 20CENTURY. 1980-1990.
Stylistic diversity expanded Influences and inspiration: pop MusicSTYLE : personal expression dominates the stylistic mode
INFLUENCES AND INSPIRATION: end of cold war and collapse of USSR , internet, new era of electronic communication, PC
FASHION DESIGNERS: Galliano ( rediscovery of Dior) , Tom Ford ( revival of Gucci) Hussein Chalayan, Alexander McQueen, Martin MARGIELA and Ann Demeulemeester expanded into the fashion industry. Marc Ecko represents new trend in the 90s fashion.
Dance : Music: Grunge , Hip Hop, Rap
Art: Conceptual Art , Digital Art, Media Art , Installation Art
FASHION DESIGNERS:
Karl Lagerfeld, Thierry Mugler, Claude Montana , Alaia, Christian Lacroix
Japanese expansion : Ray Kawakoobo, Issey Miyake , Yohji Yamamoto
UK: Vivienne Westwood established her priority in development of new inspired by alternative fashion style. .
Emerging Belgian designers : “The Six of Antwerp” – Ann Demeulemeester, Dries Van Noten, Walter Van Beirendonck, Dirk Van Saene, Dirk Bikkembergs en Marina Yee
Sport brands evolved as fashion brands Nike, Adidas and Reebok fashion phenomena
USA: triumph of Donna Karan ( started 1985) and expansion of Calvin Klein into the underwear market.
Ready to were Brands go global and became a global fashion phenomena :Benetton is known all over the world. 1987 The first Gap store outside the United States opens in London, England, on George Street.
POPULAR MUSIC: Pop ( Michel Jackson, Madonna, Boy George) Reggie (Bob Marley).
DANCE : Break dance. Disco, Pop, Techno , House, Euro-Dance
ART: Conceptualism, Photorealism, Trance Avant-Garde, development of Installation Art
TENTH DECADE OF 20CENTURY. 1990-2000.
STYLE : personal expression dominates the stylistic mode
INFLUENCES AND INSPIRATION: end of cold war and collapse of USSR , internet, new era of electronic communication, PC
FASHION DESIGNERS: Galliano ( rediscovery of Dior) , Tom Ford ( revival of Gucci) Hussein Chalayan, Alexander McQueen, Martin MARGIELA and Ann Demeulemeester expanded into the fashion industry. Marc Ecko represents new trend in the 90s fashion.
Dance : Music: Grunge , Hip Hop, Rap
Art: Conceptual Art , Digital Art, Media Art , Installation Art
Label: Women Fashion
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Label: Celebrity Fashion Hairstyle
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