FIRST DECADE OF 20CENTURY. 1900-1910
Beginning of Edwardian epoch.
STYLE : Continuation of aesthetics of Art Nouveau style and development of “Arts and crafts“ movement . Art Nouveau incarnated in in Vienna Austria as the Secession and in Germany as Jugendstil.
FASHION DESIGNERS: Paul Poiret, Jean Paquin, Mariano Fortuny
DANCE : Tango, Waltz.
POPULAR MUSIC: Ragtime.
ART: Fauvism , Analytical Cubism, Expressionism
SECOND DECADE OF 20CENTURY. 1910-1920.
Development of Edwardian epoch.
STYLE :Art Nouveau style evolved in Art Deco .
First World War. Development of more practical women’s fashion.
FASHION DESIGNERS: Coco Chanel ( as an emerging designer she open her first shop in 1913), Paquin, Lanvin, Leon Bakst(mostly costume designer for Ballets Russes), Jackues Doucet
Inspiration : Ballets Russes
FASHION ILLUSTRATORS: George Barbier, George Lepape
DANCE : Tango, Waltz Boston
POPULAR MUSIC: Ragtime, beginning of Jazz.
ART: Fauvism , Analytical Cubism, Dadaism( after 1914 ), Futurism
THIRD DECADE OF 20CENTURY. 1920-1930.
Roaring Twenties
STYLE : formation of Art Deco style.
INFLUENCES AND INSPIRATION: cinematograph, social revolution, new technology, sport , Russian constructivists: Varvara Stepanova, Lubov Popova
FASHION DESIGNERS: Coco Channel , Madeleine Vionnet; Erte , Sonia Delauney, Lanvin, Jean Patau, Edward Molynex
DANCE : Charleston, Foxtrot, Tango , Shimmy
POPULAR MUSIC: Jazz
ART: Non Figurative abstraction , Cubism, Futurism, Bauhaus, Constructivism
FORTH DECADE OF 20CENTURY. 1930-1940.
Style : development of Art Deco
beginning of “ready to wear” fashion
FASHION DESIGNERS: Coco Channel, Elsa Schiaparelli .
FASHION ILLUSTRATOR: Drian
POPULAR MUSIC: Jazz , Big Band
DANCE : Foxtrot, Tango, Valse , Boogie Woogie
ART: Surrealism, Constructivism
FIFTH DECADE OF 20CENTURY. 1940-1950.Style : decline of Art Deco
Second World War. Transition from masculine women’s fashion of the beginning of the decade to extremely feminine ( New Look by Dior) by the end of the decade
FASHION DESIGNERS: Lucien Lelong, Christian Dior ,Christobal Balensiaga, Jacques Fath, Pierre Balman .
Development of “ready to wear” fashion in the USA
POPULAR MUSIC : Bop , Big Band
DANCE : Jive, Swing , Foxtrot
Art: deepening of non representational abstraction in the USA with input of Hans Hoffman, cut outs of Matisse, individual style of Arshile Gorky. Fernan Leger
SIXTH DECADE OF 20CENTURY. 1950-1960.
Style : Influences and inspiration: Neo Realism Cinema
FASHION DESIGNERS: Christian Dior ; Christobal Balensiaga Channel (came back at 1954), Jack Patu, Pierre Balman, Emilio Pucci
Spreading of “ready to wear” concept ( prêt o porter in French interpretation) to Europe (Marx & Spenser )
Origination of alternative style. Beat generation . emerging of Teenage styles and fashion
FASHION ILLUSTRATOR: Rene Gruau
POPULAR MUSIC: Cool jazz (Miles Davis, Gerry Mulligan, Stan Getz,)
DANCE : Rockabilly , Rock n’roll, Twist
ART: Abstract expressionism
SEVENTH DECADE OF 20CENTURY. 1960-1970.
INFLUENCES AND INSPIRATIONS: street styles, youth culture, rock music, space exploration, new technologies
FASHION DESIGNERS: Yves Saint Laurent, Paco Rabanne, Ted Lapidus, Mary Quant, André Courrèges , Pierre Cardin, Emanuel Ungaro (from late 60s)
Ready to were lines in haute couture Rive Goche by Yves Saint Laurent
Ready to were Brands emerged : Gap (1969), Benetton (1965)
Generation of “ready to wear” stylists (evolved from late sixties) Sonia Rykiel, Emanuel Khan, Gerard Pipard, Christian Bailly
Street styles and alternative fashion : Hippy, Modes, Rockers
Rise of Fashion photography. Decline of fashion illustration.
DANCE : Rochk’n roll
POPULAR MUSIC: Rock 'n' Roll, Rock
ART: Abstract expressionism , Op Art, Pop Art Stylistic diversity , end of monolith stylistic trend.
EIGHT DECADE OF 20CENTURY. 1970-1980.
Fashion photography replaces fashion illustration. Richard Avedon and Helmut Newton
FASHION DESIGNERS:
France :Yves Saint Laurent, Kenzo ( moved from Japan in Paris in 1964)
UK: Vivienne Westwood
USA : Calvin Klein (launched his own clothing company in 1968, jeans brand in 70s)
Italian High fashion : Valentino, Armani (established his own men's wear label in 1974), Versace (1978)
Ready to were Brands expanded: Gap : Sales reach $2 million. Gap's second store opens in San Jose, Calif., Benetton (1965)
DANCE : Disco, Glam, Pop
ART: Conceptualism, emerging of Body Art and Performance Art, Arte Povera , Emergence of Installation Art
POPULAR MUSIC: Punk Rock
NINTH DECADE OF 20CENTURY. 1980-1990.
Stylistic diversity expanded Influences and inspiration: pop MusicSTYLE : personal expression dominates the stylistic mode
INFLUENCES AND INSPIRATION: end of cold war and collapse of USSR , internet, new era of electronic communication, PC
FASHION DESIGNERS: Galliano ( rediscovery of Dior) , Tom Ford ( revival of Gucci) Hussein Chalayan, Alexander McQueen, Martin MARGIELA and Ann Demeulemeester expanded into the fashion industry. Marc Ecko represents new trend in the 90s fashion.
Dance : Music: Grunge , Hip Hop, Rap
Art: Conceptual Art , Digital Art, Media Art , Installation Art
FASHION DESIGNERS:
Karl Lagerfeld, Thierry Mugler, Claude Montana , Alaia, Christian Lacroix
Japanese expansion : Ray Kawakoobo, Issey Miyake , Yohji Yamamoto
UK: Vivienne Westwood established her priority in development of new inspired by alternative fashion style. .
Emerging Belgian designers : “The Six of Antwerp” – Ann Demeulemeester, Dries Van Noten, Walter Van Beirendonck, Dirk Van Saene, Dirk Bikkembergs en Marina Yee
Sport brands evolved as fashion brands Nike, Adidas and Reebok fashion phenomena
USA: triumph of Donna Karan ( started 1985) and expansion of Calvin Klein into the underwear market.
Ready to were Brands go global and became a global fashion phenomena :Benetton is known all over the world. 1987 The first Gap store outside the United States opens in London, England, on George Street.
POPULAR MUSIC: Pop ( Michel Jackson, Madonna, Boy George) Reggie (Bob Marley).
DANCE : Break dance. Disco, Pop, Techno , House, Euro-Dance
ART: Conceptualism, Photorealism, Trance Avant-Garde, development of Installation Art
TENTH DECADE OF 20CENTURY. 1990-2000.
STYLE : personal expression dominates the stylistic mode
INFLUENCES AND INSPIRATION: end of cold war and collapse of USSR , internet, new era of electronic communication, PC
FASHION DESIGNERS: Galliano ( rediscovery of Dior) , Tom Ford ( revival of Gucci) Hussein Chalayan, Alexander McQueen, Martin MARGIELA and Ann Demeulemeester expanded into the fashion industry. Marc Ecko represents new trend in the 90s fashion.
Dance : Music: Grunge , Hip Hop, Rap
Art: Conceptual Art , Digital Art, Media Art , Installation Art
